We're finally in SE Asia proper, or at least the route trodden by most "backpackers". We decided to start in Cambodia so we could get our Vietnam visa easily, plus it was the cheapest place to fly to from Kuala Lumpur… We're actually playing a bit more fast and loose with our travel plans, as opposed to how certain we were about our itinerary in the States and New Zealand. I suppose it's the fact of getting used to travelling, but I think it's also that we wore ourselves out trying to fit so much into a set amount of time and you can only see so much.

Phnom Penh is a bit of a contradiction, as is most of Cambodia – the people are so friendly, but they also want your money, there's amazing evidence of the glorious Ankgorian era everywhere and also the brutal legacy of Khmer Rouge. It's very odd to walk around a city and not see any people over the age of 50 or so.

During our stay in the capital we went to the Killing Fields and Toul Sleng Genocide Museum, where thousands of people were tortured and killed by the Khmer Rouge. It wasn't sonething you'ld really call a nice day trip, but it's a massive part of the history, society and culture here, so it was warranted. I felt slightly self-concious as a tourist to be walking over mass-graves and looking at the caved in skulls of innocent victims. Our guide was really appreciative that we had taken the time to learn about the history of his country and what happened to so many people, and however emotionally draining the experience was, it was worth it in the end.

in stark contrast to that was the Royal Palace, an improbable mix of Angkorian and French colonial architecture. We sweated buckets walking around but got some breezy relief afterwards in our tuk tuk. Ah the tuk tuk, moto-driven chariot of the Walking ATM (AKA a tourist). It's quite odd to be such a tourist, everyone wants you to buy from them or eat their food, or ride in their tuk tuk, as long as you have the Almighty Dollar handy.

More photos on Flickr